Old mine cut
The dominant shape for most of diamond history. Hand-cut with a high crown, small table, large visible culet and a cushion-shaped outline. The proportions were determined by the shape of the rough, not optical theory.
SHAPE FANCY SHAPE 2 MAIN STYLES
Cushion cut
A square or rectangular brilliant with rounded corners and a soft, pillow-like outline. One of the oldest diamond shapes, and one of the most consistently popular for engagement rings.
The cushion cut descends from the old mine cut of the 19th century — a hand-cut shape characterised by a square outline with rounded corners, high crown, small table and a large culet visible from above. Modern cushion cuts retain the shape but use contemporary proportions: larger table, lower crown, no visible culet.
Today two main faceting styles exist under the cushion label. The cushion brilliant (sometimes called "chunky cushion") has larger, broader facets that produce defined flashes of light. The cushion modified (called "crushed ice") adds extra pavilion facets that fragment light into a field of fine sparkle. The difference is entirely visual — you must look at the stone, because grading reports don't always note the distinction.
Unlike a princess cut, the rounded corners of a cushion are naturally protected against chipping — a practical advantage for a stone worn daily. Cushion cuts also come in a wider range of length-to-width ratios, from perfectly square to gently elongated.
- OUTLINE
- Square / rectangular
- IDEAL L:W
- 1.00–1.10
- CUT GRADE
- None (GIA)
SHOWCASE · FACE-UP VIEW Cushion brilliant
Cushion brilliant
The traditional cushion faceting with larger, broader facets — similar in pattern to a round brilliant adapted to a square outline. Shows chunky, well-defined flashes of light and fire. The "antique" look many buyers seek.
Sometimes called "chunky cushion". The large facets produce distinct light flashes rather than the fine sparkle of the modified.
Cushion modified
An additional row of facets added to the pavilion breaks light into many smaller reflections — called the "crushed ice" effect. The face-up appearance is more like a field of glittering fragments than distinct flashes. Very popular in contemporary settings.
Also called "crushed ice cushion". The extra facet row means the stone sparkles finely rather than showing broad flashes. Neither style is objectively better — it is a matter of taste.
Elongated cushion
A rectangular cushion with a length-to-width ratio above 1.15. Sits between a square cushion and a radiant cut in appearance. Looks larger face-up for its carat weight than a square cushion. Very fashionable as of 2024–2026.
Popular choice for those who want an elongated look without the step-cut open table of an emerald. The rounded corners are more forgiving than a princess or radiant.
Brilliant vs Modified: choosing your style
The two cushion styles produce a completely different face-up look. Both are equally valid — it comes down to personal taste.
CUSHION BRILLIANT
Also called "chunky cushion"
- Large, broad facets — similar to a round brilliant
- Defined, chunky flashes of white light and fire
- Classic, antique-inspired appearance
- DiamondTheGuide pattern clearly visible from above
- More like a round in terms of light character
- Slightly easier to evaluate — fewer variables
CUSHION MODIFIED
Also called "crushed ice"
- Extra pavilion facet row — more, smaller reflections
- Fine, fragmented sparkle across the whole stone
- Contemporary, glittery appearance
- DiamondTheGuide pattern less distinct — "icy" look
- Closer in appearance to a radiant cut
- Can hide inclusions well due to scintillation
Proportions to look for
GIA does not issue cut grades for cushion cuts. You evaluate proportions yourself using depth %, table %, and length-to-width ratio. Here are practical ranges for a well-cut cushion.
Depth % is the most important single number. A deep cushion (over 68%) hides weight and looks smaller face-up. A shallow cushion (under 60%) may sacrifice brilliance. The sweet spot sits around 62–66%.
Measurement Avoid Acceptable Ideal
Depth % > 70% or < 58% 67–70% or 58–61% 61–67%
Table % > 70% or < 50% 65–70% or 50–55% 55–65%
Length-to-width > 1.40 or < 1.00 1.10–1.40 1.00–1.10
Girdle thickness Very thin / Extremely thick Thin / Thick Thin – Slightly thick
Culet Large / Very large Small None / Very small
From old mine to modern cushion
1700s–1800s
Late 1800s
Old European cut
A rounder, more symmetrical evolution of the old mine. Still a high crown and large culet, but moving toward the round brilliant outline. The precursor to the modern round.
1900s
Modern brilliant era
The Tolkowsky round brilliant (1919) set the standard for optimal proportions. Cushion cuts fell out of fashion as round brilliants dominated the 20th century.
2000s–present
Cushion revival
The cushion cut returned strongly in the 2000s, driven by celebrity engagement rings. The modern cushion is a purpose-built cut — not a recut old mine — optimised for contemporary proportions with the signature rounded corners.
How cushion compares
At 1.00 ct, cushion cuts sit between round and princess in face-up area, with the rounded corners offering better durability than princess.
Round brilliant
L:W 1.00 33.2 mm² Corners: N/A
Maximum brilliance; rounder outline; higher price premium.
Cushion brilliant
L:W 1.00–1.10 ~30 mm² Corners: Rounded
Antique feel, defined flashes, durable corners. This shape.
Cushion modified
L:W 1.00–1.20 ~30 mm² Corners: Rounded
Same outline, crushed-ice sparkle, contemporary look. This shape.
Princess cut
L:W 1.00–1.05 ~30 mm² Corners: Sharp 90°
Sharp corners require protected setting; slightly larger face-up.
Radiant cut
L:W 1.00–1.35 ~31 mm² Corners: Cropped
Similar sparkle to cushion modified; cropped rather than rounded corners.
Questions about cushion cut
What is the difference between cushion brilliant and cushion modified?
A cushion brilliant has larger facets that produce broad, defined flashes of light — similar to a classic round brilliant adapted to a square shape. A cushion modified (often called "crushed ice") has an extra row of facets that breaks light into many smaller reflections, creating a sparkling, fragmented appearance. Neither is objectively better: the brilliant style looks more "classic" and antique; the modified looks more contemporary and glittery. The distinction is not always noted on grading reports, so it must be assessed visually.
What is the ideal length-to-width ratio for a cushion?
For a square cushion: 1.00–1.05. For a slightly elongated cushion that still reads "square": 1.05–1.12. For a clearly elongated cushion: 1.15–1.35. Above 1.35 it starts to look more like a radiant cut. Personal taste plays a large role — some buyers want a perfectly square face-up; others prefer a softly rectangular outline. The rounded corners make the shape forgiving across a wider range than a princess cut.
Does a cushion cut show colour more than a round?
Yes. Cushion cuts retain more colour than round brilliants because their larger facets and different light-return pattern allow the body colour to show through more readily. A round G colour can appear near-colourless; the same G in a cushion may show a slightly warmer tint. Buyers typically step up one colour grade when choosing a cushion: if G works for a round, consider F for a cushion. This is especially true for larger stones above 1.50 ct.
What depth % should I look for in a cushion cut?
Cushion cuts run deeper than rounds — typical ranges are 61–67% for cushion brilliant and 61–68% for cushion modified. A depth % above 68% can mean weight is hidden and the stone looks smaller face-up than expected. A depth % below 60% may indicate a shallow pavilion with reduced brilliance. Table % is also important: 55–65% is a broadly acceptable range, though specifics depend on the exact faceting style.
Is the cushion cut the same as the "old mine cut"?
No, though they are related. The old mine cut is a 19th-century antique cut characterised by a very small table, high crown, large culet and 58 facets in a cushion-shaped outline. Modern cushion cuts are recut to contemporary proportions — they have a larger table, lower crown and no visible culet. Old mine cuts are often recut into modern cushions; true old mine cuts command a premium among antique jewellery collectors.
How does a cushion compare to a princess cut?
Both are square brilliant cuts, but cushions have rounded corners while princess cuts have sharp 90° corners. The sharp corners of a princess are a chipping risk — they must be protected by the setting. Cushions are more durable in this respect. Light performance is similar, though the cushion modified "crushed ice" style looks quite different from a princess. Cushion cuts also come in a wider range of length-to-width ratios. For face-up size, a well-cut princess tends to have a slightly larger apparent diameter than a cushion of the same weight.